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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.